The Trainer – About the Director, Clayton Jacobson
Trainer
Filmed on a Canon EOS 5D Mark II
By Clayton Jacobson
Graduating from Australias prestigious Swinburne Film & TV School in the mid 80s Clayton collaborated with established industry luminaries such as Jane Campion (the Piano) Andrew Dominik (Chopper) and John Hilcoat (the Proposition). Like many directors before him, Clayton cut his teeth directing Music videos for some of Australias premier musical acts including INXS, JOHN FARNHAM, KATE CEBERANO and JIMMY BARNES before entering the world of Commercials and feature film production. His 2006 hit film KENNY won multiple awards locally and internationally and spawned the TV series KENNYs WORLD.
I know that Canon doesn’t have drivers for Windows 7 yet, but my Canon Rebel XT USED to work when I plugged it in and now it doesn’t recognize it at all. What happened?! It’s frustrating because it once worked, then all of a sudden quit recognizing it. (I’ve made sure the communication setting on the camera is set to "Print/PTP" and not "PC Connection" and it still doesn’t work).
I don’t have a card reader, I’m at work and using a USB cable only.
Can you use a card reader instead and copy/paste from the card to your pictures file.
PTP mode settings and remote control of camera – WFT-E2 / E2A. You remotely control your EOS DIGITAL camera via USB connection to a computer with the EOS Utility remote shooting function. The PTP mode of the WFT-E2 / E2A / E3 / E3A now enables remote camera control via wireless/wired LAN plus access to more power and options in studio sessions and fixed-camera shooting. In this mode, of course, all control functions of the EOS Utility, including the shutter, image transfer and folder monitoring, are remotely controlled.
My first “serious” project (besides playing with lights, as my friend Alan put it) is almost done.
This is going to be a configurable remote for my Canon EOS 350D / Digital Rebel XT (and possibly for all the cameras of that series). The shutter is closed when two lines of the 2.5 mm stereo jack are shorted; this is achieved by using the relay.
My remote has two modes of operation, chosen through a simple deviator used as a switch: time lapse and bulb.
In time lapse mode, it counts down to the specified interval and quickly closes the relay switch to fire the camera’s shutter, then starts counting again. In bulb mode, it immediately closes the relay switch and starts counting; when the counter reaches zero, the relay switch is opened (the camera’s shutter opens too) and it goes back to idle mode.
The interval is defined in seconds and can be any multiple of 5 between 5 and 995 (that’s over 16 and half minutes, and it’s close to the camera B mode limit of 999 seconds). It is changed through two buttons (UP and DOWN).
The third button, ENABLE, starts or stops the counter; I had originally thought about using a deviator switch for it, but I realized that the counter should have been stoppable by software too, therefore a push-button proved most useful for that.
In this video, the shutter control is replaced by a green LED as I currently lack a wire long enough for my needs. I will solder it to the connector tomorrow, and test it in the field. Hopefully my camera won’t be fried by it.
The software takes 1262 bytes.
Equipment used:
1 x ATmega8
1 x 5V-operated relay
3 x 74HC595 (8-bit serial-in parallel-out shift register with latches)
3 x 7-segment C.A. displays
5 x 1N4148 diodes (4 for the buttons/switch, 1 as a protection for the relay coil)
3 x 3mm red LEDs
1 x 7805 (voltage regulator)
1 x BC239B (NPN)
1 x 100 nF (smoothing)
1 x 1 µF (deounce)
1 x 1 k? (debounce)
1 x 2.2 k? (NPN base)
6 x 470 ? (LEDs and LED displays)
3 x momentary push buttons
1 x deviator (as switch)
1 x switch (main)
I am considering buying a Canon Digital Rebel XT – EOS 350 XT. However, when I read about other cameras (e.g. Olympus E-500), they make a big deal about the dust reduction. Canon does not mention dust reduction … anyone expereinced dust issues with Canon 350XT? Should one be concerned about this issue?
dust has always been an issue with all cameras since they were invented. What you are reading about is marketing hype. If you can’t beat the competition in in the MP wars then pick another worthless feature to hammer home.
What they are talking about amounts to an in camera post processing effect that will soften your image and reduce dust and speckles. There is a limit that in-camera software can do that you the human can decide otherwise. If you enable this feature then small details of your picture could be confused by the camera processor to be dust and those details would be lost. You are better off post processing the dust yourself if it gets captured in your computer. Better Idea! Get a Hakuba Lens pen and clean you lens.
Some of the cameras that shake the senor to remove dust are flat scary to me. Mechanical attached sensors are prone to failure as any mechanical device is. I would stay away from any mechanically attached sensor based camera if I want to avoid problems. That includes the new Sony A100 with its camera body based image stabilization. It also moves the sensor to reduce image shake. Sounds to me like a failure waiting to happen. Moving mirrors are bad enough, but the mechanics have been around for decades and lots of engineering work has been proven over the years on how to make reliable ones. The mechanics of a dSLR are going to be the weakest point. Would your really what to add another weak point?
I use the fine hair brush on the Hakuba lens pen to clean my sensor also. I’m careful about keeping the camera body aimed down when changing lenses so that dust has little chance to enter my camera. I have owned dSLR’s for 15 years now and only had to clean my sensor a dozen times at most. Just stay out of any breeze when changing lens and you should not have a problem with dust. If you do shoot a lot outdoors in dry dusty conditions then learn to change your lens inside your camera bag without looking.
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